Hitting a plateau?

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Anonymous
So I am wondering...I climb on average twice a week. Usually once inside and once outside. I have found that after almost 2 years of climbing, I have hit a plateau where I can't seem to get past a really tough 5.9 bordering on a 5.10......Any suggestions? (Other than climb more, because if I could I would) Would it be beneficial to work a problem til I drop dead?  

31 Dec 2003 12:17
Anonymous
If you're training for climbing, then you probably need to adjust that routine. If you're not training for climbing, and that means in the climbing gym as well as a conventional gym, then you'd probably benefit from training.

You'll need to develop a routine for your time in the climbing gym, to maximize the relatively small opportunity (one day per week inside) you have to work toward improvement. The routine will allow you to observe progress in strength and technique, after a little time, by getting better at performing the same activity (routine). You can do hangboard work, campus board work (maybe), traversing (definitely!), boulder problems, along with climbing roped routes. Make your time have structure and purpose. Commit to sticking to a development routine for at least 6 weeks, and don't get distracted, or discouraged. You'll read about what to expect and when, so don't expect improvement too quickly. That's the purpose of committing to the routine for a number of weeks: the goal is the "timeframe", not the "improvement". The gains in technique and strength will come as a result of the commitment. Stick with the timeframe (6 weeks, 8 weeks, etc.); don't stop because you see some improvement and you think that's what you were looking for. Stay with it the whole time, making small adjustments as needed to keep it hard and interesting, but still within the routine framework. Good luck.  

31 Dec 2003 12:19
Anonymous
I have always followed the principal of building a pryamid. In order to push through to the next level you have to have a solid foundation in the lower grades. For example just because you climbed a 5.11 does not mean that you are on the verge of climbing a 5.12. You need to build the foundation first. You need to climb a bunch of routes at the lower levels to prepare you for the bigger numbers. every 5.12 ascent is built on a bunch of 5.11 ascents and each of those are built on a bunch of 5.10 climbs and so on. You can't just start working a really hard route and think that if you try it enough you will eventually get it.

5.15
5.14 5.14 5.14
5.13 5.13 5.13 5.13 5.13
5.12 5.12 5.12 5.12 5.12 5.12 5.12 5.12
5.11 5.11 5.11 5.11 5.11 5.11 5.11 5.11 5.11
etc.

I hope that helps...  

31 Dec 2003 12:20
almostaskater
Well, I hit a plateau when I started climbing 5.12's I would on-sight a 5.11d then I just would die on a 12. What I did was do 45 pushups in the morning and 45 pushups at night and after every climbing session I did a really good cool down. In about 2 weeks I was climbing 5.12's. :)  

29 Mar 2007 04:23

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