Whats your top?

Home  \  Forums  \  Surfing  \  Whats your top?
The largest wave I have ever ridden is 9 foot. On the face flying down the line with my right hand extended up in the air getting hit with spray from the lip. Thats about it for me...any bigger and its beachtime for bonzo. You might say I am a "day after surfer". I really get amped and do my best surfing when its 6-8 and firing. Lets hear it!! Whats your limit, if any?  

14 Dec 2003 19:26
we figured the largest i've ridden to be 8 foot + on 9/11/02. hardest part was sticking with my decision to paddle for the wave and not wait to pop up. once i was up and dropping down the face, all i could look at was this wall of water taller than me and staring back at me as if to say it was gonna crush me. just then, my feet seemed to short-circuit the brain and straightened out in time to keep me from being swallowed whole (as i'd picked the closeout of the set). i'm heading straight for the beach, the fog keeps me from knowing where the jetties are located and the wave closes right behind me sending an explosive spray up that seems to shoot me toward shore even faster. mind you, i'm on my longboard and i don't remember style crossing my mind at all but my hands were screaming for fresh blood and pumping through the air as i hit the sand and promptly turned around for another go. funny enough, i didn't even remember paddling back through the whitewater to get to the lineup. it just seemed necessary.

then an airhorn blew and we circled up for the paddle out memorial. the fog burned off, the swell subsided and I rode a smaller one in to finish a perfect session.

that's not to say that an 8 foot wave doesn't get the blood pumping and the fear coursing through me but i really don't need anything bigger than that to push myself and explode with stoke.  

14 Dec 2003 19:28
biggest ever was 12-14 foot @ Baja Malibu...nothing like here with the shore break slamming down and making it hard to get out...it was easy to paddle out, and the drop although very steep, it was a slow wave once you were in position...I am more scared to surf 10 foot LI...

biggest LI wave ever was back during hurrican Bobs swell..prob 10 foot, i don't remember i was 14 i think...lots of bones smoked since then..i do remember getting my 6ft G&S snapped into a boggie board...

Something i noticed about our hurrican swell...it is nasty when you get cought inside and you are already out of juice from paddling out 5 minutes prior...i have been out all spring and summer just so i knew my arms would be ready for this weekend...I can't wait!!!  

14 Dec 2003 19:31

Login   or  Signup to comment