What knot do you tie in with?

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I myself use a double bowline for sport leads and take a lot of flack for using it. Anybody else climb on the 'Yosemite Death Knot'? or mostly double/traced 8s? If you use an 8 what kind of saftey knot do you use, if any?  

18 Dec 2003 13:07
I use a 8 with a extra double back to get rid of the stub.  

18 Dec 2003 13:09
I use a double bowline too, in fact, almost all of my friends that climb hard (5.13's and 5.14's) use a double bowline too. a double figure eight sucks because it gets so tight when you fall on it alot, like when you are working a route, that it becomes sometimes almost impossible to untie it (especially if you use a thin rope, like a 9.4mm). I have seen people come down after getting bouted by a route, and being pretty pissed, and then unable to untie their rope because the fig. 8 got so tight that it takes them half an hour to untie, or they have to get their belayer to untie it for them, or once i even saw my friend pull out his knife and cut the knot off!!

The only place you will get alot of hastle from people for a bowline is in a climbing gym, or if you are climbing with a bunch of gymrat's or beginners who have been brainwashed to think that "a double figure 8 is the ONLY safe knot to tie in with" (which is B.S.). a double fig. 8 is better for beginners because it is easy to check and hard to tie it wrong, a double bowline is much easier to mess-up, and not easy to vissually check. Both are equally safe (100%), so safety isn't the issue, it's convienience and personal prefferance.  

18 Dec 2003 13:12
I figure a slip knot would be best. I mean what motivates you better than knowing your going to die if you don't send? Well... maybe knot. I use a double eight wi. no safety. If there's extra rope it stabs me in the eye on occasion, which tends to suck.  

18 Dec 2003 13:14
Figure 8 every time with a stopper knot.  

28 Apr 2004 13:27

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