What was your worst day surfing?

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i've had a couple less than stellar sessions since coming off back surgery, that's for sure.

last friday evening, i got nailed by a snakes board, then got called off a peak by a guy who shoulda split it and gone right and i wanted to fight. i was so steamed, i rode the next one in just to keep myself outta trouble. my family would kill me if i got into a fight and ended up in jail.  

23 Jan 2003 21:10
Seems there were many more "worst" days surfing in the old days than there are now in the last 10 years.

Sure, I drive for 2 hours and get skunked, no biggie.

But I remember days when all my buds were out and catching all these good waves, and I just woke up from a night of cabbie-ing, walk down to be beach, change into my wetsuit, and CAN'T for the life of me, get out. All my buds are having a great time, some really snaking the rest, but I'm stuck inside getting pounded for about 100 rows of whitewater, then when it clears, I get outside of EVERYONE, sit WAAY outside, and a clean-up set of 5 waves knocks me back to the shorepound that never stops.
After 2 more tries, I give up, get changed, and notice that now, the tide dropped another 3' and people are walking out untouched by whitewater, wait in the channel for about 3 minutes, and paddle out dry. Then, it's another go, usually making it out but really uptight.....  

23 Jan 2003 21:12
I certainly have had the shit kicked out of me. Nearly drowned at HB Pier when i was fifteen. But my worst day was...

Two years ago next month, my son and I had gone to the beach one afternoon because it was supposed to be really good. He had only been surfing about a year.

It was epic, the kind of day that looks exactly like a magazine. Six feet, offshore, extremely hollow, sheet glass. Just unbelieveably beautiful. Cold but not a cloud in the sky.

He was amped for a little guy, 11 at the time. We suited up and headed out. It was breaking about 150 yards offshore with no clean rip to paddle through. As we got closer, it was breaking clean top to bottom and just exploding as the lip hit the glass. It was really loud, like thunder.

Because it was so big, I was paddeling right beside him until we got out. But everytime he would get close to the impact zone, he would get wiped off his board and shoved back inside. He couldn't duck dive very well then and would just take the brunt head on. He struggeled with it for about 40 minutes. Really working hard just to get body slammed as the next lip exploded in front of him. I was getting tired but was not about to leave him. He saw the perfection, couldn't get out and started to get up set with himself that he couldn't make it. When he started to lose control, he started to lose his breath and ended up crying as each wave beat the crap out of him but he wouldn't quit. After almost a solid hour of paddeling, I told him we should just go back in. He didn't want to but I made him because I was afraid that he would get in real trouble when his breathing was so eratic. He was so upset and disappointed.

We just sat on the beach, together, watching barreling perfection until the sun went down.

That was my worst day.  

23 Jan 2003 21:13
Dano, lousey day of surfing, but a lifetime experience with the son. somewhere in the back of his mind is the thought that life can be giving you gas, but dads there for ya. :wink:  

23 Jan 2003 21:14
a week ago- went to surf elwha river mouth and got skunked.

then on the walk back to the car the indians thought its be funny to let a few rounds off and see us scramble

then they road blocked us and told us not to come around any more

then we went down to surf lyre beach and now a white guys screaming at us for not paying him to use 'his' ocean

then we drove 2 more out to neah bay couldnt find the spot i wanted to surf so surfed another, waves were good but had to swap with my buddy for his board or a sponge cuz mine was getting repaired then we had to leave after an hour and a half cuz i had work

then my cam corder broke from sand and salt water

then i ran out of gas

called my boss to tell him i was running late and he told me to take the day off! i coulda surfed more...

that was my worst day  

23 Jan 2003 21:21
My sister has lived in Waianae, Oahu for about 15 years, so whenever I visit, I surf Makaha.
One of the first times , I paddeled out with my nephew on about a 6', windy day.....anyway , I inadvertently dropped in on a local , I mean I really did'nt see him . 15 minutes later we go in and this fat ,ugly, fred flinstone with a tan , woman starts whipping me with a leash!! Then her friends pile on; pushing, shoving, screaming, then the men folk come running so I crawl underneath a car until my nephew gets my sister to rescue me! Of course my sis knows all of them and tells me I dropped in on the moke woman's man . So I'm fucking sorry right? Nooooooo . so I end up buying a case of budweiser and every ones happy while they guzzle beer . It's 8:30 am!! I'm trying to think of a moral to this story ......anyone??  

23 Jan 2003 21:22
My worst day was during that hurricane swell we had in so cal at the end of the summer. I went out to malibu with a friend and we decided to check out heavens, since its usually a little less crowded. It was pretty much beach break, but we decided to head out because there were only about 6 other guys in the water. I try to catch a wave that looks like it will be ok, but it just keeps rolling in closer to shore with me semi catching it. Once I realize whats going on I try to sit back on my board and pull out, but its to late..........I go over the falls and end up getting hammered into like 3 ft. of water. OUCH!

So then we decide to head down the line a little to zeros. We get there and the surf is good, crowded, but good. Anyways a plus size set comes out of no where and breaks way outside, no one gets it. I'm just about to duck dive when I see some kook heading right at me. He decided he couldn't handle this plus set and decided to ride the white water to shore sponger style on his surfboard. I turtle roll just in time to avoid being pulvarized. Turns out he put a huge gash in mynose and took of a fin.

So I head in like 5 min. later with my friend and this guy has the nerve to ask me for 20 bucks to fix the ding "I" put in his board. I didn't want to be mean, since my goal in the water is to be nice to everyone, so I showed him my board and told him we should call it even. Deep down inside, though, I wanted to break his face. :D  

23 Jan 2003 21:23
New Year's Day of this year I was out at Steamer. Anyone who lives in Santa Cruz should remember there was size. All I had was my sponge because I was visiting a friend up there(pretty sure my board was broken anyhow). It takes about a half an hour to paddle out to the line up, due to the strong current, which is about a quarter mile out. The sun is going down. Finally I get out there and find there are only about 6 to 8 guys out on guns and it is triple overhead on the sets. Yikes! I actually drop in on one which is a fun drop, a turn or two and the wave begins to die out. It is low tide and the waves are super powerful. The lefts are barrelling, with almost nobody going for them. I go right. I get off the wave and start paddling out back out. I almost get out to the line up when I see sets luming on the horizon and I realize I am not on the shoulder, but in the impact zone. The first wave is small(small meaning about 10-12') and I feel a gut feeling to take it and get out of the way of the dark looming sets behind it. Well like an idiot, I attempt to paddle over it and make it over the sets. Next thing I know, there is a monster bowl that is pitching. It breaks about 20 yards in front of me. I ditch and dive. When I get hit by this thing, I felt like a freight train hit me. Suprised I am not knocked out and getting rag dolled a bit, my leash breaks(being an old borrowed wrist one). So I pop up and duck the next one, and the next one, and the next one. Finally it hits me that I am being drug inside where the non-set waves are breaking and I am extremely far out without a board. I am totally exausted and breath in some water. I have fins on but just get freaked. I call for help to anyone and wave my hands, but there is no one who can see or hear. The thought goes through my mind, that this is how I am going to die, I will drown at the Lane in darkness. So I start praying out loud. I start pleading with God/Jesus to save my life everytime I pop up after ducking a wave. The thought comes to me to sit on my back(being boyant from the 4/3) and kick to the shoulder. Before I know it I am there. Then, with fear that I look like a wounded seal, I get a lift with that awful current that I fought earlier. It brings me right back to the surfer statue staircase. Some guys point out my undamaged board to me on the low tide beach. I make it up to the car and head home. I gotta tell you I was shook up half of the night, but later, sitting at my computer, I thanked God for saving my life.

By sharing this, some will think I am a kook. I admit I am no pro, but I have been out in my fair share of big surf at the Lane and Pleasure and some down south here where I live now. All I have to say is, know that there are very real consequences to going out when it's big. And if you are not experienced or sure of yourself, think about it a little before you get in trouble. The funny thing about my worst day, is that even though I was on a sponge, it was so fun and I later could use the fins to swim back. Anyway, just a thought to all the foamriders and those against.  

23 Jan 2003 21:24
moved to OR in '91, went fishing at a jetty and saw surfers. immediately went and bought a board (shittiest board ever made) and a 3/2 bodyglove waterskiing wettie.

one of my first frozen sessions, i drove up to the beach, it was really foggy and i could only hear the rumble of the outisde surf. a wierd looking dude with an afro and braces (picture ben stiller in something about mary) was getting suited up and seemed excited so i joined him and followed him out in the current next to the jetty.

soon we were seeing very large stormy waves roll through and the rock jetty was moving by us at about 10mph. the affro-braces-man soon looked very concerned and said something about being swept out to sea and blubbered "this is really bad dude!". now in a total panick, i paddled my flopping arms for everything they were worth.

the end of the jetty was our only chance and the large waves were smashing up onto the razor clam covered boulders and then sucking backwards. afro-braces-man made the 1st landing and i watched with horror as he was smashed onto a pointed rock, his board breaking into 3 pieces and him clinging desperately onto the sharp razor clams. he got smashed further up with the next wave surge, his leash getting stuck into the rocks for a moment.

now it's my turn, my eyes giant balls of fear, my adrenal gland already dry-heaving. i got smashed onto a rock, felt my board take the brunt of the blow and then tossed it and clung for my life onto the boulder, feeling my hands getting lacerated, but not caring about it. the next wave smashed me up further, then i scrambled and i was standing on my wobbling bambi legs - ALIVE!!!!

i made it out with my board in one piece, but the bottom was caved in in several places. my hands and knees and wetsuit were torn up to shit and bleeding.  

23 Jan 2003 21:26
damn that sucks ass

new wetty and its torn :cry:
and with the sittiest board it staryed in-tacked

and yeh do u know what happened to afro-braces man?  

23 Jan 2003 21:29

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